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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.